1275 neil
15 posts
Joined: 06/03/2005 11:38:19
Location: norwich United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
steering drop bracket
how do you fit it is it hard and does it make much difference after
Posted: Apr 01, 2005 06:27 PM
could anyone tell me how easy a bracket is to fit and the proceedure in doing so and does it make any difference to driving position thanks
Posted: Apr 01, 2005 07:11 PM
kjw911
36 posts
Joined: 10/04/2005 18:45:44
Location: BROADSTAIRS United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Sterring column drop bracket
I cannot get a steering column drop bracket for my 2000 1.3i cooper. I believe this is due to issues with the airbag. Is there a problem with changing the airbag steering wheel for a normal sports wheel?
Posted: Apr 14, 2005 04:11 PM
Darren35se
54 posts
Joined: 10/01/2005 11:40:06
Location: Telscombe Cliffs United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Drop bracket
I think Wood & Pickett do a drop bracket for airbag cars.
Posted: Apr 18, 2005 08:21 AM
pickme
672 posts
Joined: 08/09/2004 23:10:14
Location: Chippenham United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Fitting
Fitting is easy enough. First undo the four bolts (two on each side) that are under the front footwell carpet. These hold the steering rack in place so just slacken the nuts off. Dont remove them! Next, undo the bolt that fixes the steering column to the dash mounted bracket. This is an anti-tamper bolt, but Ive never seen one with the nut part removed. If this has been removed, you may have to cut it off and replace. So, assuming you have been able to undo and remove this bolt, let the steering column drop down. Undoing the steering rack bolts lets the whole assembly rotate. This is very important because some people dont bother with undoing the stering rack and lowering the column causes the gear at the bottom to lift off the rack resulting in no steering. This is not good! Fit the drop bracket into the dash mounted bracket and refit the original bolt. Nip this up finger tight. Next, offer the steering column up to the drop bracket and put the new bolt through to hold it in place and nip this up finger tight too. Now sit in the drivers seat and move the steering wheel up and down until you find a comfortable place and hold it there with your knees while you tighten up both bolts properly. It shouldnt move once they are tight. A tidy thing to do while your at it is to route the column cables through the drop bracket to keep them out of the way. Dont worry about having the column all the way down. I have mine pushed to the top of the drop bracket. This half inch difference is enough as the seat I have is quite high anyway. Oh, dont forget to tighten up the steering rack bolts. Ive done that before... Whats that rattlng?
Posted: Apr 01, 2005 08:54 PM
Principools
95 posts
Joined: 25/10/2005 00:47:23
Location: Crowborough United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Bertie
Had him for a year now, replaced the 1275 unit with 1380 with 296 cam lightened flywheel, sc/cr gearbox sc drop gears, weber 45, janspeed lcb, single box rc 40 exhaust. added more gauges than you can shake a stick at, two new mamba seats, trs magnum ultralight harness (waiting for a 3 point one for passenger side) lucas LR6 spots and fogs, lucas reversing light, hi los, adj negative camder brackets, rear anti roll bar, new rear subframe and a few other bits and bobs,,,,,and I kove him to bits
Posted: Oct 11, 2006 06:53 PM
mark
397 posts
Joined: 18/08/2005 14:01:28
Location: Hitchin United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Fitting a new speedomoeter cable - engine side
i usually if i have forgotten to fit it when dropping in the engine, remove the bracket that holds the end of the cable, think its 3/8; or 7/16th something like that, attach the cable to this then refit the end back on the block.
Posted: Oct 09, 2007 08:44 AM
taffy1967
1783 posts
Joined: 27/09/2006 18:58:07
Location: Rhondda-Cynon-Taff United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Steering Column Adjustment for MPI Mini
You could always phone Wood & Pickett and ask them: -
http://www.woodandpickett.com/shop/classic-mini/steering-and-steering-wheels/column-drop-brackets/313/
Posted: Jul 23, 2008 08:20 PM
MattPink
21 posts
Joined: 14/09/2004 08:27:37
Location: United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Response.
You could change the wheel, but the splines are different to an older mini. You will need an MGF boss kit and these can be bought to fit the popular mountney or momo style wheels. Is there really no drop bracket for the MPi?
Posted: Apr 15, 2005 12:39 PM
steering
Ifthe steering rack isnt lined up correctly with the steering column it will keep lifting the gear off the rack. This is often casued by fitting a column drop bracket without loosening off the two U clamps when fitting. Try losening the bolts on the two U clamps and at the column clamp and make sure the two bits a correctly in line before tightening the whole lot up again. If you can jack both front wheels off the gound, turning the steering wheel with the bolts loose will help the rack line up.
Posted: Oct 09, 2005 03:10 PM
John
1948 posts
Joined: 28/05/2006 16:49:46
Location: cambridge United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
How Heavy is an A Series Engine?
gd luck with that m8 mind ur back, rember u dont just have to lift it u have to lift it to clear the car which is about 2 foot high so ur gunna have to start out on ur knees, also if u drop it ur gunna reck ur body, iv taken mini engine out one by lifting frount of body up over the engine and subfraim, with a big bit of wood as a lever took 4 of us saves having to disconnect drive shafts ect. best try borrow a engine hoist and save ur back sorry to be a pessimist. with hoist only takes an hour, id never go back from using hoist is so much easyer. also when u lift the engine it needs to piviot at about spark pug point to get diff out, u can get bits to screw into ther spark holes to attach to it bit iv made do before by removing alternator / dynamo and puting long bolt thru fixings and putting one strap thru that, then the other thru the engine steady bracket next to block where rubber bushes go. if u dont piviot it like that u will need somone to angle it as it comes out. with rope round it or something simular.
Posted: Dec 08, 2006 06:42 PM
rozzer1275
70 posts
Joined: 20/08/2006 15:25:05
Location: harpenden United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
indicators
if they are self canceling, and you have a sterring wheel drop bracket fitted, check that the outer steering colum is full up to the steering wheel with the pin locating in the plastic collar.
Posted: Nov 10, 2008 01:40 PM
stephen gallone
8 posts
Joined: 11/10/2008 14:32:27
Location: bromley United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Indicators ...
The last entry by 'rozzer1275' proved very useful .... Thanks !...... I'd just put a steering column drop bracket on, and the indicators weren't cancelling.... so I loosened the outer column and shunted it up against the steering wheel and located the little lug as described..... Trouble is now, they only cancel on sharp 90 degree turns.... If a more swooping & gentle turn is made, then they won't cancel.... Any suggestions ????
Thanks.... Steve
Posted: Nov 14, 2008 04:00 PM
Fixings etc
Seats - Many seats are available with bottom fixings. These are good because you can fit a tailored subframe that will fit as a direct replacement. You can also use the alloy frames available and mount the seat fully behind the cross member. This might be important once youve fitted the cage . Look at what seats have already been fitted (mini mag etc or shows) to get an idea of what will actually fit. I use a Cobra Clubman and that only just fits on a tailored subframe because of the width of the shoulder support. You may find you have to move the seat back behind the cross member and put the sholders of the seat behind the B post part of the cage. Once you actually look for that on other cars it makes more sence. If you do move the seat back, youll probably need a steering drop bracket too. Belts - Rear seat belt mounts a fine but are boarderline with FIA regulations because the belts are at quite a sharp downward angle. Ideally, you mount to a proper bar on the cage thats fitted just for this. You can also fit them through the top of the rear parcel shelf, but a big load spreading plate will have to be fitted. Bear in mind that the belts will be pulling forward when you mount the fixings so if they stick vertically upwards, the plate will need to continue down the back of the seat a bit to give it support. For rear seat access (if the seat position hasnt already scuppered this) some harnesses are available with a detatchable rear section, so leave your normal seatbelt in place and use the harness eyelets to bolt it in place. That way you can choose which one you want to wear. Cage - Bolt in is fine and FIA approved (if the cage itself has FIA approval). Weld in is fine and lighter, but it needs to be done properly to get approval. Make sure you seal the bare metal properly after drilling any holes in the floor or itll rust through very quickly.
Posted: Mar 10, 2005 09:05 AM
Barry Brown
511 posts
Joined: 23/06/2008 12:08:31
Location: New Barn United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Radiator replacement: Any hints for getting the bolts in tight places.
I find the best way to get the bolts into a tight place is to just let them drop out. Invariably they will fall inside the lefthand engine mount bracket and can be a right pain in the a*se to retrieve.
On a serious note: The bottom ones are best done with the NSF wheel removed (car on axle stand please..) The upper ones require you to remove the upper bracket, which means undoing the thermostat housing nuts so watch out for leaks up here when you put it back together. New mounting rubbers will be required as the old ones will be cracked and hard and will be adding to vibration stress on the radiator.
Posted: Dec 07, 2009 02:10 PM
Jordie
5 posts
Joined: 13/09/2004 19:29:59
Location: PRUDHOE United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Help - Mini dying!
Right here goes. Tuesday nite my top engine steady broke, the bolt had snapped leaving half in engine. I had to use the car to drive to college wednesday, seemed fine except the rocking engine. Anyway, wednesday it seemed to be running alittle rough (taking ages to start,many turns of key,lots of choke,cutting out) expected it to be due to the above. so today i got a bracket for the engine, for which the steady fastens too. Fitted that and then tried to start car. Was still running rough, so adjusted idle and it got abit better. Anyway went for a test drive and when i braked driving out of the driveway the engine sound dropped and it sounded as it was going to cut out. Went for a drive and when i go around a corner (noticed on left if that matters) it sometimes cuts out too. So i added abit of oil to dashpot, checked the engine oil and topped up and dont know wot else to do. I just took my girlfriend home and it took many turns of key and alot of turning over to get it running. I need to use the car tomorrow and over weekend so could do with some ideas as i am clueless. The engine is a standard 988cc, with pipercross cone filter and mini spares standard neck to rc40 link pipe, straight thru RC40 and centre exit box. The dizzy had points and condenser done just over a month ago. Cheers, hope u can help me :/
Posted: Nov 18, 2004 11:29 PM
Jonny_Nicholl
50 posts
Joined: 19/04/2008 16:15:20
Location: Warrington United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Steering column drop...
I have finallygot around to fitting a steering column drop bracket to my beloved (1990 Rover Checkmate). However, when I've come to undo the bolt to put the bracket in, it is a security-type bolt i.e. rounded heads and one conical shaped also?!?!?!
Are these standard fitment in a Rover Mini, and what would be the best way to remove? I have tried chiselling and mole-grips to no avail. I would try a hacksaw, but there is n't really room to get in there with one.
Thanks for any info in advance.
Posted: Mar 17, 2009 08:01 PM
jamie7144
37 posts
Joined: 11/06/2008 19:30:33
Location: Bushey United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Engine steady bulkhead bracket brocken off.
I noticed the bracket on the bulkhead holding the engine steady to the block has somehow sheared at the bottom gradually lostening the bolt, in turn creating slack on the choke/accelerator causing the revs to drop thus the engine cutting out.
What is the best thing for me to do? Weld the bracket back up or is there a repair for it?
Another quick question, my headlights have suddenly become very dull and orange, since i replaced the steering column it seems. Any ideas on the situation?
Last one, my windscreen wipers are terrible. Lack of power and sometimes can barely handle wiping, it got so bad and frustrating that i had to resort to removing one. Any more powerful motors out there?
Cheers
Posted: Oct 17, 2010 04:47 PM
Eric
222 posts
Joined: 21/06/2007 10:12:29
Location: Cranbrook United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Nut but no bolt
Thanks for the reply.
I think I have the nut (found on the floor- hope it is that, not something else....). But I haven't got the bolt, and I can't fo the life of me think how to get a bolt through into the space. It seems to be entirely surrounded by the trim and impossible to get at. Haynes says cheerily that you drop the heater down, but that seems to make no difference at all.
I'm wondering if it is necessary to remove the dashboard - but that really seems OTT for something so trivial.
I'm just wondering if it is at all possible to just screw a bolt on from the back, with no nut - and hope the thread grips the hole in the bracket. Or even a fat self tapping screw?
Any ideas very gratefully received.
Posted: Oct 02, 2010 05:40 PM
Alistair
23 posts
Joined: 09/12/2007 14:44:18
Location: Callington United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
stange knocking
Hi
I seem to have a strange knocking/clunk when i'm driving along, it doesn't really seem to be effected by engine or road speed, but it does make a louder knock if you drop the clutch sharply. It also seem to be more pronounced when the engine has warmed up.
The problem is, is that some times you can drive for over 100 miles and you won't here a thing. A couple of days later you'll pop to the shops or something and it will be knocking like there is no tomorrow.
I thought it may be the front exhaust bracket as that seems to be the right area for the sound to be coming from, however when i got underneath and gave it a good shake it seemed fine.
Any ideas would be much appreciated.
Ali
Posted: Feb 08, 2008 01:32 PM